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The Hajj, Ethnography and British Muslims
Up to 25,000 British Muslims travel annually to Makkah and its' environs in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia to perform Hajj. As the fifth pillar (arkan ) of Islam, the great pilgrimage returns Muslims to the birthplace of their faith and is a religious duty once in their lifetime, so long as they have the health and wealth to do so. In the late modern period, the number of pilgrims performing Hajj has mushroomed, with between 2 and 3 million expected in 2015. This has prompted a huge expansion of Makkah's infrastructure. As for Muslims in the West, given generous quota allocations and relatively high incomes, they have more opportunity to make the pilgrimage at a time of their choosing than pilgrims elsewhere in the Muslim world.
Hajj is performed over five days, 8-13 Dhu al-Hijja in the Islamic lunar calendar, and in 2015 will fall during late September. This is a timely moment then to the launch this gallery. In 15 images I offer a ‘thick’ visual description of British-Muslims' sacred journeys, most especially in terms of the trans-national circulations of people, places, capital, objects and ideas they represent. It was while conducting ethnographic research among pilgrims, tour operators, community organisations and governance authorities in London, the Midlands and the North of England, that I began to collect Hajj related images. At different stages, this work has been funded as part of an AHRC award to the British Museum and Hajj: Journey to the Heart of Islam (2012) curator, Dr Venetia Porter, as well as during a British Academy Mid-Career Fellowship (2013-14).
My gallery also reflects a shift in the study of religion(s) during the last decade. There has been a new exploration of the governance and marketization of religion, as well as lived, material and embodied religious practice, all of which is enacted at multiple and inter-linked temporal-spatial scales. AHRC strategic programmes on ‘Religion and Society ’ (2007-13) and ‘Diasporas, Migration and Identity ’ (2005-10) have shaped such agendas significantly, not least in terms of encouraging greater multi-disciplinarity. Indeed, this project has worked across Islamic Studies, the Anthropology of Pilgrimage, Sociology of Religion and Ethnic and Migration Studies.
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Acknowledgement:
This gallery was prepared with assistance from Steve Honeyman and Chris Taylor at the University of Leeds.
Longing for Sacred Homelands
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Hajj is a religious duty but Muslim culture also sustains a longing for Islam’s sacred homelands which are at once absent and present in everyday life. In these paintings, a London-based fine artist personalises the formal views of Makkah and Madinah which typically grace British-Muslim front rooms. At the centre of Makkah’s Great Mosque is the Ka’ba, the House of God and the direction of daily prayers. The green dome of the Madinah Mosque marks the beloved Prophet’s burial place.
© Kamel Baksh, 2015. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY-NC-ND”
The UK Hajj Industry
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Until the 2000's Hajj-going in the UK was typically organised independently in small, informal groups. However, as part of increased regulation in response to pilgrim numbers, the Saudi authorities made it compulsory to travel with approved travel agents. There are now around 79 such agents in the UK. Of these, El-Sawy Travel, was perhaps the first to organise a formal Hajj ‘package’ during the early 1980s. The Egyptian-born owner is pictured outside his premises near Regent's Park Mosque, North-West London.
© Seán McLoughlin, 2014. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY”
Making Preparations
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In an online survey of nearly 200 British-Muslims conducted 2011-12, Islamic books were rated as the most important source of information about Hajj. This guide to performing the pilgrimage is especially novel and has proven to be a bestseller. Published in Birmingham by Al-Hidayaah (‘guidance’), an Islamic business which combines a bookstore with a travel agency, Hajj & Umrah made easy can conveniently be worn around the neck. A copy is photographed here at the Salafi Bookstore in Bradford.
© Seán McLoughlin, 2015. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY”
Welfare, Training and Governance
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Following a 1997 tent fire in Saudi Arabia which killed over 300 Hajjis, the UK's first pilgrim welfare organisation was founded in Birmingham. The Association of British Hujjaj (ABH) lobbies government to support UK citizens visiting Makkah. It also educates intending pilgrims about health and safety. At a 2014 event in Birmingham, speeches were delivered in English and Urdu by medics, Islamic scholars and civic dignitaries. Trading Standards in the city has been especially proactive in tackling ‘Hajj fraud’.
© Seán McLoughlin, 2014. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY”
The British Hajj Delegation
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Under New Labour a British Hajj Delegation was established in 2000. Unique among Western nations, it made Foreign and Commonwealth Office support available on the ground in Makkah. However, in 2010, funding for volunteer medics ceased. This photograph shows the now privately-funded British-Muslim doctors in 2012. With government stressing the need for self-help in the Hajj travel sector, it also highlights the key contribution since the mid-2000s of a ‘second generation’ welfare organisation, the Bolton-based, Council of British Hajjis.
© Rashid Mogradia, 2012. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY”
Ihram and Ritual Separation
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At one of several miqats (boundary points) surrounding Makkah, pilgrims make ablutions, don their ihram (ritual attire), and state the intention to perform Hajj. They enter a state of consecration which includes various prohibitions. Travelling from the West today, the miqat is often reached en route to Jeddah International Airport. Here, however, British-Muslim pilgrims gather at the miqat nearest Madinah, Dhu’l Hulayfa. The women's light, cotton ihrams are optional, whereas men must wear two unstitched pieces of white cloth.
© Qaisra Khan, 2010. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY”
Guests in the House God
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Feelings of sacred time and space are confirmed for many when they see the House of God for the first time. The Ka’ba was built first by Prophet Adam and then rebuilt by Prophet Ibrahim. Pilgrims must circumambulate the cube-shaped building anticlockwise seven times (tawaf). This image captures the oceanic experience that British-Muslims report, a sense of oneness (tawhid) with God. However, given the sheer weight of pilgrim numbers, the ritual is physically punishing. Sacred and mundane are navigated step-by-step.
© Peter Sanders, mid-1990s. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY-NC-ND”
In the Footsteps of Hajar
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Pilgrims also re-enact the inspiring story of Hajar, Ibrahim's wife and Isma’il's mother. Hurrying (sa‘i) seven times between two hillocks, they embody her search for water having settled in the desert with her son. Drinking from the well of Zamzam, pilgrims recall the miraculous spring God revealed to save the pair. Nevertheless, some British-Muslims highlight the discrepancies between the sa‘i of sacred history and its modern manifestation. The ritual is now performed on marble floors inside the ever-expanding Great Mosque.
© Qaisra Khan, 2010. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY”
Community, Equality and Difference
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Having performed the Makkan rites, pilgrims leave their hotels and travel several kilometres into the valley of Mina. Here they camp overnight in a vast tented city. British-Muslims describe increased opportunities for interactions, both within their own groups and with pilgrims from across the world. They relate sublime and everyday moments when social divisions are dissolved and the idea of a united Muslim ummah (community) emerges. Yet, at other times, differences of class, gender, ethnicity and denomination also remain apparent.
© Simon Martin, 2009. Creative Commons licence – “CC-BY”
Seeking Forgiveness: The Day of 'Arafat
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The zenith of the Hajj occurs on the plain of ‘Arafat beyond Mina. Here Adam met again with Eve after the Fall, and many pilgrims turn inwards to repent on Jabal al-Rahma (Mount of Mercy) where Muhammad gave his farewell sermon. As shown here, pilgrims stand in congregation (wuquf), fervently supplicating from noon until sunset. In their shroud-like ihrams, British-Muslims say that this also rehearses the Day of Judgement. Hajj is indeed a journey from sinfulness to purification.
© Simon Martin, 2009. Creative Commons licence – “CC-BY”
Being Tested: The Stoning of the Pillars
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Having collected pebbles at Muzdalifa overnight, pilgrims stone three jamarat (pillars) back at Mina. This cathartic ritual commemorates Ibrahim's physical actions in rejecting Satan's attempts to test him. In the 1970s a jamarat bridge was constructed to convey pilgrims to the pillars, a site notorious for stampedes. In 2004 the pillars were replaced by huge walls. However, as this photograph shows, following 300 deaths in 2006, an entirely new bridge and multi-storey system was introduced. British-Muslims report feeling much safer.
© Simon Martin Photography, 2009. Creative Commons licence – “CC-BY”
From Sacrifice to Charity: Eid al-Adha
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Together with the shaving/cutting of pilgrims' hair, it is the qurbani or animal sacrifice that seals Hajj. Most restrictions associated with ihram now come to an end. ‘Eid al-Adha (Festival of the Sacrifice) is celebrated simultaneously in Makkah and across the Muslim world. It commemorates Ibrahim's willingness to sacrifice his son, Isma‘il, in obedience to God. Today charities encourage British-Muslims to donate their qurbani offering to the poor world-wide. Here, an Islamic Relief shop in Bradford, promotes its campaign.
© Seán McLoughlin, 2015. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY”
Souvenirs and Shared Blessings
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Travelling material objects share the baraka (blessings) of the Holy Places. Perhaps the most significant of these is water from the well of Zamzam, which stands near the Ka’ba. Airlines currently allow each pilgrim to return home with up to 10 litres often in large, mass-produced plastic bottles like the one here at a mosque in Bury. Visitors may be invited to stand facing Makkah and drink the Zamzam from special cups, while listening to stories about its curative properties.
© Seán McLoughlin, 2015. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY”
Being a Hajji: Changing Public Significance
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Returning pilgrims bear the new, honorific titles of ‘Hajji’ (men) and ‘Hajja’ (women). Traditionally expected to be more pious and enlightened, they have often been given a special respect in Muslim communities. This shop-front in East London illustrates how such values still find expression in the urban landscape. However, Hajj-going has become rather commonplace in Britain and the public significance of performing the pilgrimage is declining. Nevertheless, a pilgrim's lifestyle can still be a matter of scrutiny in close-knit communities.
© Seán McLoughlin, 2014. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY”
Spiritual Efficacy and the Desire to Return
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For Hajjis like Bilal, photographed here at home in Leeds wearing clothes and scent from the Holy Places, and standing in front of a picture of the Great Mosque, Hajj is profoundly spiritually uplifting and potentially life-changing. Some pilgrims do manage to take their experiences forward with them as they settle back into everyday routines. But this is not easy to sustain. Thus British-Muslims today tend to be unanimous in their desire to return to Makkah and Madinah one day.
© Seán McLoughlin, 2011. Creative Commons licence - “CC-BY”